I went back to Kashgar, in southern Xinjiang, in September last year for the first time in 13 years. In 2000 it was a place that I was sorry to leave; I didn’t feel the same this time. More words and pictures about that can be found at Unmapped, a new travel magazine that’s publishing the kinds of pieces that are in short supply: well-written, insightful reports from places that the news agenda doesn’t seem concerned about.
2024 Update: Unmapped has, alas, ceased publication, but the text of the piece can be found here: https://www.uyghurcongress.org/en/the-death-of-old-kashgar/
Nick Holdstock 
Kashgar indeed changed alot in last decade, especially last 5 years. Various government sponsored mainland Chinese companies bought over various business in town and built skyscrapers.
“Going back would be too depressing. So long as I stayed away, my memories would endure” It’s my hometown, imagine how I feel?! But the article was very touching, may be because I could relate more or I’ve seen what’s written…